Puerto Escondido would be that cheeky friend if surf towns had personalities. They are loud, loyal, and a touch dangerous. You quickly notice that this isn’t your usual sandy walk when you paddle out at Zicatela Beach. The waves here are known as “The Mexican Pipeline.” They hit hard. But that’s still a strong lure for thrill-seekers and anyone who likes big waves. Fresh faces should definitely consider puerto escondido surfing lessons. A crash course is the best way to learn, unless you crash, which is good.
People in the area laugh at surfboards that are taller than the people who possess them. They give each other advice on anything from how to duck-dive to how to avoid skimboard speed demons approaching the beach. The learning curve here is harder than the cliffs behind the beach. You might meet a salt-and-pepper veteran one day who floats through the waves like he had his own secret current. He’ll wink and remark, “Sometimes she bites.” Be polite to her.
In the early morning, the sea is crystalline and the chill of dawn lasts just long enough to make you wonder your sanity. By mid-morning, there are people at all skill levels in the lineup: pros looking to hollow peaks, intermediates hoping for smooth rides, and first-timers being trapped in whitewater tumble cycles. There are a lot of people out there, but no food trucks.
People talk about late drops and wipeouts in the sand. As the sun goes down, they get bigger and better, just like the piles of empty coconut shells. Some people say that Zicatela is where boys become men, but ladies are just as tough, if not tougher, and maybe even more stylish. You learn from your experiences here, and not much is sugar-coated.
August is the worst month. The crowds become bigger, the waves get bigger, and your heart rate goes up. La Punta serves friendlier left-handers if you want something more laid-back. It’s more like hammocks and less like going to the hospital. It sounds silly to do yoga on the beach, but then you remember how helpful it is to be flexible when you’re stuck in the foam.
Gear is less about “getting rich” and more about “making do with what you have.” Dings happen. The heat makes wax melt. Every time you wear boardshorts, they get less bright. But locals insist that their dented boards ride better through Zicatela’s scowl.
When you talk about snacks, you talk about two things: where to eat after you wipe out and where to get the next round. If you have a painful back and salty eyebrows, tacos taste 10 times better. The fiery sauce and the waves are both not for the weak.
You might depart with a sunburn, a rash from the sand, and a smile on your face. Everyone has a tale about Puerto, and you might write your own while the waves crash and the froth rises. So, are you ready to paddle?